The Best ofIntima & Swim Edit
17 August 2018
Renown worldwide as the ambassador of the “Beach Couture” concept, luxury swim designer Lenny Niemeyer boasts a career proving that the moniker is both hard-earned and well-deserved. She launched her eponymous label in 1993, after a decade of designing swimsuits for leading Brazilian brands, and today her exquisite pieces can be seen gracing elite beach-goers and stocked by top retailers and fine boutiques across the globe. Here, she shares with us the driving force behind Lenny Niemeyer – the woman and the brand.
Where does your passion for swimwear come from? Is it part of your DNA as a Brazilian, or are you driven by an entrepreneurial spirit to bring your offering to the marketplace?
I believe it’s a combination of both. My greatest reward is to see happy people wearing my creations.
Who are your personal style icons?
Coco Chanel, Jacqueline Kennedy, Cate Blanchett
You have decades of experience in the design and production of swimwear. How has the industry evolved since you started out? Where do you see it headed now?
The beachwear industry has grown exponentially over the last decade, following the demand of an ever-developing tourism industry to accessible beach destinations.
Many new designers have jumped on the bandwagon and even renowned luxury Ready-to-Wear brands have started to develop a small swimwear line.
Young Brazilian designers are charting new territory and winning accolades the world over. I believe our tropical diversity and unmistakable national identity is key to this newfound influence.
Brazilian swimwear is universally recognized (and legendary) for its less-is-more philosophy. While many of your bikinis fit this bill, your collections also feature silhouettes with more coverage. What elements are present in your designs that are, in your opinion, uniquely Brazilian?
Brazil’s complex colonial past and rich history of European, Japanese and Middle Eastern immigration provides the Brazilian designer with a wealth of graphic icons, clothes, colours and identities. Brazilian designers concentrate less on technique and focus more on artistic freedom. My collections always start with a particular experience, a trip, a legend, an artwork, something that inspires me, followed by detailed research and the creation of the prints. The unique Brazilian fauna and flora are always present in my collections.
When you envision your ideal client, the woman you are designing for: who is she? What do you seek to highlight about her through your products?
The Lenny Niemeyer customer is a contemporary woman who appreciates comfort and quality. A woman who understands fashion beyond short-lived trends.
It’s essential that she looks beautiful and feels happy wearing my swimwear, enhancing her assets and covering her flaws. In my collections there is always the perfect style for each body type.
Since the Lenny Niemeyer brand’s debut runway show over 20 years ago, your offering has expanded to include accessories, handbags, shoes and ready-to-wear. Are you planning to integrate additional categories? Will you be adding a menswear line anytime soon?
What I would really like is to design a “Lenny Home” line of objects and furniture for holiday retreats and and urban houses alike. I love “dressing” my home!
What advice would you give to brand owners or retailers interested in diversifying their offering?
My main advise would be to plan everything well in advance. If you decide to diversify your offer I strongly recommend you always follow the DNA of your brand to remain coherent and faithful to your loyal customers but in different moments of their lives and daily activities.
Of all the pieces you’ve designed, what are your most iconic styles?
I always work with prints and shapes. Silk clothes, fluid chemisiers, and a variety of styles and geometric cuts.
What’s the most challenging part of the business side of running a brand?
Management is the eternal and more challenging side of any business. We need to stay tuned to new developments while maintaining our creative spirit without losing our way and renovate constantly. The perfect balance between creativity and administration requires relentless hard work.
How do you ensure that your designs anticipate the trends of next season? Is there a formula to finding that balance between timeless classics and the next hot item?
I always try to innovate with each collection, while making sure all my pieces are timeless. My Summer 2019 collection is inspired by the rich, diverse and ever-changing nature of Brazil. Structured prints reminiscent of straw and earth combine in a subtle mix of stripes, leaves and abstract brushstrokes.
Latin America, led by Brazil, represents the largest swimwear market worldwide. How does product demand, in your experience, shift between the local market and the North American one?
Brazil is defintely the leader in South America, but nowadays in our globalized world, American and European markets love the Brazilian style and our products enjoy a great acceptance and increasing demand on both continents.
Your empire of stores across Brazil account for the bulk of your sales; nevertheless, Lenny Niemeyer products have consistently sold well from European multi-brand stores. How were you able to transition into the European market? What are your plans for continuing to expand there?
Europe is definitely an important market for our brand. Our aim is to solidify the image of the brand while understanding the cultural singularities of each region. We have partnered with a European distributor to promote our label and I often visit the fairs where we show our collections or participate in special events.
What pieces from your upcoming collection are you most excited about? Which ones will you be wearing to the beach yourself?
A high neck or draped maillot because it elongates the silhouette and can be paired with bottoms such as skirts, pants or shorts to transition from the beach to a happy hour.
Looking back over your noteable career in the swimwear industry, what do you believe has most contributed to the indisputable success of the Lenny Niemeyer brand?
Dedication, good knowledge of the market and being able to keep our trusted customers by surprising them and exceeding their expectations with new creations. Hard work and being surrounded by a great team in each department.
To quote Thomas Edison: "Success is 1% inspiration, 99% perspiration."
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