Genius International srl
Genius International Srl
Via Pagliano, 35
20149 Milano - Italia
C.F. P.IVA: 03514810963
Reg. Imp. Milano: 03514810963
REA: MI - 1680125
Cap. Soc. 10.000€

The Best ofIntima & Swim Edit

Business

Chantelle Reimagined

09 March 2018

Already notable in SS18 but instrumental for the FW18-19 collections, the new identity of the Chantelle Group has not passed by unnoticed.

Their brand portfolio has undergone a significant redesign and we can now find all of the brand’s groups placed under one umbrella organization featuring modernized and synergized collections, a new image and new signature, which all comes together in their recently inaugurated new boutique concept. We meet with Renaud Cambuzat, the creative whirlwind, the driving force behind this metamorphosis.


Mr Cambuzat, our first question is purely out of curiosity – as you approached the world of lingerie, what was it that immediately caught your expert eye?
At first, I was struck by how specific the product is, technically complex, difficult to represent and capture in images, but captivating as it carries many different societal challenges. The intimate nature of lingerie brings up diverse key conversations such as the body, the mind, the relationship between the two, and more largely, the question of woman and the feminine. These are rich, demanding topics and it is always difficult for a brand to treat them with the necessary precision. I thought we could offer new proposals, more emotive, more open, less stereotypical and more stimulating. What does it mean to be a woman today? How can we reflect her complexity with the respect it deserves, both on a body level with high-quality products and on a mind level with inspiring brand experiences ? There are multiple answers, and it is this multiplicity that we feel important to think of.

What was your idea of Chantelle before you joined the house?
A high-quality company, with recognized expertise and know-how, built over time on rigorous standards and humility. The strong human values deeply rooted in the Chantelle culture are one of the reasons why I joined the group. Bringing meaning is important to me. There were extremely solid foundations at the heart of the group which allowed us to think about new proposals that not only make sense in the world of today, but also of tomorrow. This new chapter is a great adventure for this beautiful and unique house.

You are the Artistic Director of the group but your involvement in the redesign of brands went beyond this as it saw you taking part in the reflection on the internal reorganization that was necessary to form the base of the new structure. How did you go about this?
We have a rich portfolio of wholesale brands: Chantelle, Passionata, Chantal Thomass and Femilet (a Danish brand that we will be presenting for the first time at Salon International de la Lingerie this year). Our wholesale brands are also joined by our different retail concepts: Darjeeling and Orcanta in France, Livera in Holland and our new international retail concept CL. Given this complex yet powerful brand structure, we wanted to have a more transversal approach that could allow us to develop both the complementarity of our brands and their uniqueness. Both from an internal and external point of view, working on the different brands through this portfolio approach ensures that each brand keeps its own specific territory, and that they all come together to form a complete offer that is inspiring, unique and relevant. We adopted this approach from the beginning regarding artistic direction topics and that explains the almost simultaneous image repositioning of all our brands.

The first ever CL boutique can be found in Milan’s trendiest shopping center. Modern, essential yet super connected, the boutique presents your entire brand portfolio and brings this new direction to life…A number of industry professionals are asking if your Orcanta stores in France will become CL boutiques, and following this, your other brands will be available there? The concept boutique CL, that carries the group’s new name, was initially developed to support our international retail expansion. We have, nonetheless, taken the decision to pilot it in France and in the interests of speed, we have chosen to convert three Orcanta stores into CL boutiques in 2018. At this point, this will be a test and afterwards we will decide if we want to continue to convert boutiques or not. In the CL model, we assume that our six group’s brands allow us to offer a truly diverse range of styles, cuts and categories to our clients. At a later stage, if certain needs are not addressed by the CL assortment, we could consider introducing some third party brands in specific segments to satisfy clients’ demands. Finally, we hope that the expertise that we have acquired through this retail experience can benefit our wholesale partners, who we want to continue to develop with.

Under the new entity CL, each of the different brands in your portfolio has been redefined through their synergy. How have they evolved and how would you describe them today? More than just a new concept boutique, CL is above all the new identity of the group. Strong, innovative, different, this umbrella brand emerges as a design studio and embodies the values of quality, creativity and modernity that all of our brands have in common. From FW18-19, it will start to appear as a signature on certain elements of our communication with the phrase, “designed by CL.” Under this name, we have integrated our different brands in a way that is complementary and harmonious: Chantelle, with its strong heritage of innovation, turns towards the future by emphasizing the design part of its DNA; Passionata establishes itself as a brand resolutely turned towards pleasure and liberty; Chantel Thomass continues to use its independent spirit to go further along its irreverent path; and Femilet is the true Scandinavian brand. The various rebranding reflect these evolutions and have been focused on three dimensions: visual identity (photo, video, design), graphic identity (logo, colors, typography and layout) and communication style (the tone of voice - how the brands express themselves). For Chantelle, Passionata and Femilet, we worked on a complete redesign on these various areas. For Chantal Thomass, the evolution will be more progressive.

Image, as your primary field, plays a fundamental role in the identification of each of your brands and, yes, the changes have been significant for all of the brands, but aren’t they even more striking for Chantal Thomass? What was your intention here? The brand benefits from a strong identity, high-end and different, carried by its independent spirit and the unique style of its creator. The FW18- 19 images are a new interpretation that is loyal to the irreverent and creative brand. If you compare our brands, Chantelle defines the rules, Passionata doesn’t take them too seriously, and Chantal Thomass breaks them.

You say that digital will be an integral part of your development strategy. Can you give us a sneak preview as to how this will unfold?
We want to continue to develop across the three distribution channels, which for us are wholesale, retail and digital. Furthermore, the skills developed in retail and digital should also strongly benefit our wholesale partners. Digital is therefore indeed one of our priorities for the coming years. It should complement the in-store experience by enriching it with additional functionalities in line with new customer trends and expectations. We are also working on projects that aim to use digital to support the activity of our wholesale partners, who remain a key pillar for us. From a brand image and communication standpoint, digital is a privileged channel to establish a direct connection with our clients, be it through social media, our own sites or those of our partners. It is also a great way to immerse our customers in our brands’ universes, which is essential as we know that a large part of our clients today first look online before buying in-store and are often guided by desire for a brand rather than for a specific product. Beyond refreshing our existing networks following our recent artistic directions, we are thinking of new ways to use digital to communicate with our clients and accompany our partners, from dedicated content productions and specific actions, to the creation of a new ambitious platform for the group in 2019 which will offer an innovative and empowering experience.

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