The Best ofIntima & Swim Edit
09 March 2018
Their brand portfolio has undergone a significant redesign and we can now find all of the brand’s groups placed under one umbrella organization featuring modernized and synergized collections, a new image and new signature, which all comes together in their recently inaugurated new boutique concept. We meet with Renaud Cambuzat, the creative whirlwind, the driving force behind this metamorphosis.
Mr Cambuzat,
our first
question is
purely out of curiosity – as you
approached the world of lingerie,
what was it that immediately
caught your expert eye?
At first, I was struck by how
specific the product is, technically
complex, difficult to represent and
capture in images, but captivating as
it carries many different societal
challenges. The intimate nature of
lingerie brings up diverse key
conversations such as the body, the
mind, the relationship between the
two, and more largely, the question of woman and
the feminine. These are rich, demanding topics and
it is always difficult for a brand to treat them with
the necessary precision. I thought we could offer
new proposals, more emotive, more open, less
stereotypical and more stimulating. What does it
mean to be a woman today? How can we reflect her
complexity with the respect it deserves, both on a
body level with high-quality products and on a mind
level with inspiring brand experiences ? There are
multiple answers, and it is this multiplicity that we
feel important to think of.
What was your idea of Chantelle before you joined
the house?
A high-quality company, with recognized expertise
and know-how, built over time on rigorous standards
and humility. The strong human values deeply
rooted in the Chantelle culture are one of the
reasons why I joined the group. Bringing meaning is
important to me. There were extremely solid
foundations at the heart of the group which allowed
us to think about new proposals that not only make
sense in the world of today, but also of tomorrow.
This new chapter is a great adventure for this
beautiful and unique house.
You are the Artistic Director of the group but your
involvement in the redesign of brands went beyond
this as it saw you taking part in the reflection on
the internal reorganization that was necessary to
form the base of the new structure. How did you go
about this?
We have a rich portfolio of wholesale brands:
Chantelle, Passionata, Chantal Thomass and Femilet
(a Danish brand that we will be presenting for the
first time at Salon International de la Lingerie this
year). Our wholesale brands are also joined by our
different retail concepts: Darjeeling
and Orcanta in France, Livera in
Holland and our new international
retail concept CL. Given this
complex yet powerful brand
structure, we wanted to have a
more transversal approach that
could allow us to develop both the
complementarity of our brands
and their uniqueness. Both from
an internal and external point of
view, working on the different
brands through this portfolio
approach ensures that each
brand keeps its own specific
territory, and that they all come together to form a
complete offer that is inspiring, unique and relevant.
We adopted this approach from the beginning
regarding artistic direction topics and that explains
the almost simultaneous image repositioning of all
our brands.
The first ever CL boutique can be found in Milan’s
trendiest shopping center. Modern, essential yet
super connected, the boutique presents your
entire brand portfolio and brings this new
direction to life…A number of industry
professionals are asking if your Orcanta stores in
France will become CL boutiques, and following
this, your other brands will be available there?
The concept boutique CL, that carries the group’s
new name, was initially
developed to
support our
international retail
expansion. We have,
nonetheless, taken
the decision to pilot
it in France and in
the interests of
speed, we have
chosen to convert
three Orcanta stores
into CL boutiques in
2018. At this point,
this will be a test and
afterwards we will
decide if we want to
continue to convert
boutiques or not. In the
CL model, we assume
that our six group’s
brands allow us to offer
a truly diverse range of styles, cuts and categories to
our clients. At a later stage, if certain needs are not
addressed by the CL assortment, we could consider
introducing some third party brands in specific
segments to satisfy clients’ demands. Finally, we
hope that the expertise that we have acquired
through this retail experience can benefit our
wholesale partners, who we want to continue to
develop with.
Under the new entity CL, each of the different
brands in your portfolio has been redefined
through their synergy. How have they evolved and
how would you describe them today?
More than just a new concept boutique, CL is
above all the new identity of the group.
Strong, innovative, different, this
umbrella brand emerges as a design
studio and embodies the values of
quality, creativity and modernity that all
of our brands have in common. From
FW18-19, it will start to appear as a
signature on certain elements of our
communication with the phrase,
“designed by CL.”
Under this name, we have integrated
our different brands in a way that is
complementary and harmonious:
Chantelle, with its strong heritage of
innovation, turns towards the future
by emphasizing the design part of its
DNA; Passionata establishes itself as
a brand resolutely turned towards
pleasure and liberty; Chantel
Thomass continues to use its
independent spirit to go further
along its irreverent path; and Femilet is the true
Scandinavian brand.
The various rebranding reflect these evolutions
and have been focused on three dimensions: visual
identity (photo, video, design), graphic identity
(logo, colors, typography and layout) and
communication style (the tone of voice - how the
brands express themselves). For Chantelle,
Passionata and Femilet, we worked on a complete
redesign on these various areas. For Chantal
Thomass, the evolution will be more progressive.
Image, as your primary field, plays a fundamental
role in the identification of
each of your brands
and, yes, the changes
have been significant
for all of the brands,
but aren’t they even
more striking for
Chantal Thomass? What
was your intention
here?
The brand benefits
from a strong identity,
high-end and different,
carried by its independent
spirit and the unique style
of its creator. The FW18-
19 images are a new
interpretation that is loyal
to the irreverent and
creative brand. If you
compare our brands,
Chantelle defines the rules,
Passionata doesn’t take
them too seriously, and Chantal Thomass breaks
them.
You say that digital will be an integral part of your
development strategy. Can you give us a sneak
preview as to how this will unfold?
We want to continue to develop across the three
distribution channels, which for us are wholesale,
retail and digital. Furthermore, the skills developed
in retail and digital should also strongly benefit our
wholesale partners. Digital is therefore indeed one
of our priorities for the coming years. It should
complement the in-store experience by enriching it
with additional functionalities in line with new
customer trends and expectations. We are also
working on projects that aim to use digital to
support the activity of our wholesale partners, who
remain a key pillar for us. From a brand image and
communication standpoint, digital is a privileged
channel to establish a direct connection with our
clients, be it through social media, our own
sites or those of our partners. It is also a
great way to immerse our customers in our
brands’ universes, which is essential as we
know that a large part of our clients today
first look online before buying in-store and
are often guided by desire for a brand
rather than for a specific product. Beyond
refreshing our existing networks following
our recent artistic directions, we are
thinking of new ways to use digital to
communicate with our clients and
accompany our partners, from dedicated
content productions and specific actions,
to the creation of a new ambitious
platform for the group in 2019 which will
offer an innovative and empowering
experience.
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